If you find yourself in Florence in June, you'll notice a different atmosphere. It's not just the heat of the Tuscan summer or the scent of artisanal gelato: it's the excitement that precedes June 24th, the day of San Giovanni, the city's patron saint.
For Florentines, this date isn't just a holiday; it marks the most anticipated event of the year: the final of the Calcio Storico Fiorentino.
What is Calcio Storico?
Forget modern football with its strict referees and simulations. Calcio Storico (also known as Calcio in Costume) is an ancient sport with roots in the Middle Ages. It's a fascinating and brutal mix of rugby, boxing, wrestling, and soccer.
The basic rules? Two teams of 27 players compete for 50 minutes on a sand pitch set up in the splendid Piazza Santa Croce. The objective is to "hunt" by throwing the ball into the opponent's goal. But beware: almost anything goes!
The Four Districts: A City Divided by the Heart
In Florence, belonging matters. The city is divided into four historic districts, each associated with a color and a main church:
- The Whites of Santo Spirito (Oltrarno)
- The Reds of Santa Maria Novella
- The Greens of San Giovanni
- The Blues of Santa Croce
Did you know? The prize for the winning team is not a gold cup or a check, but a Chianina heifer and, above all, the immense honor of having dominated the city for an entire year.
The Adrenaline Rush of June 24
The final on June 24 is the pinnacle of the celebrations for San Giovanni. The day begins with the Historical Procession of the Florentine Republic: a parade of over 500 participants in Renaissance dress who parade through the streets of the city center amidst the blare of trumpets and the roll of drums.
The atmosphere in Piazza Santa Croce is indescribable:
- The Tension: The silence before the kick-off is charged with emotion.
- The Fight: Seeing the players battle on the sand with sweat and dust takes you back in time, to the siege of Florence in 1530.
The Cry: When a "caccia" is scored, the square erupts in a roar that can be heard all the way to the ring roads.
Why watch it if you're studying Italian?
Experiencing Calcio Storico is an exercise in cultural immersion. You'll learn words you won't find in textbooks, like palla a corda, caccia, or focone, and you'll understand the proud and genuine character of the Florentines.
Will you come round out the day? (The "Fochi")
After the battle in the square, the celebration moves along the Arno River. Around 10:00 PM, everyone's eyes (students, tourists, and residents) turn toward Piazzale Michelangelo for the "Fochi di San Giovanni", the fireworks display that lights up Brunelleschi's dome and the city's bridges.
And you, which color will you be rooting for this year? We'll be waiting for you at school to discuss it and find out if your heart is White, Red, Green, or Blue!
Scuola Leonardo da Vinci Florence
