Have you ever heard of the Merenda Reale?
It is a historical ritual which started in Turin in the eighteenth century, when the aristocracy loved to take an elegant break between lunch and dinner to enjoy hot chocolate — nicknamed “the drink of the gods” — accompanied by biscuits such as baci di dama, torcetti, lingue di gatto, canestrelli and savoiardi. A moment of pleasure and refinement that has become a symbol of Savoy culture.
In the nineteenth-century version of the Merenda Reale, hot chocolate was replaced by Bicerin, a typical Turin drink made with chocolate, coffee and cream, served in layers in a glass.
The good news is that in Turin it is still possible to experience this moment of aristocratic life by going to one of its many historic city-centre cafés: these are like treasure chests of the past, where you can really experience the culinary history of the region.
Here’s where you can enjoy a Merenda Reale:
Caffè Pepino – Piazza Carignano
Founded in 1884, it is famous all over the world for inventing the Penguin in 1939, the first ever ice cream on a stick. It still serves traditional chocolate and artisan ice cream, in one of the most charming squares in the city.
Caffetteria Gerla – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II
Since 1927, it has been combining elegance and modernity. It serves sophisticated pâtisserie that reinterprets the Piedmontese tradition with a contemporary touch.
Caffè Elena – Piazza Vittorio Veneto
Founded in 1889, it has a bohemian decor and was often frequented by intellectuals such as Cesare Pavese. In addition to hot chocolate and traditional desserts, it also serves traditional vermouths, a drink first served in Turin in the eighteenth century which over time has become one of the symbols of the city and of the Italian aperitivo.
Caffè Fiorio – Via Po
Open since 1780, it was the favourite café of the intellectuals and politicians of the Risorgimento: Count Cavour, prime minister of the Kingdom of Italy, was a regular patron. It is famous for its Bicerin, but its speciality is gianduja ice cream, made with chocolate and Piedmontese hazelnuts — a legacy of the Napoleonic era.
Caffè Platti 1875 – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II
A symbol of sophistication, since 1875 it has been impressing visitors for its Art Nouveau interiors and its pralines, small chocolates with a crunchy shell and a creamy filling.
The Tea – Torrefazione Moderna – Via Corte d’Appello
In the 1920s, the premises of a grocery store dating back to 1892 were turned into a state-of-the-art torrefazione (a place where coffee is roasted). Today it is a very special tearoom: each infusion is prepared on the spot, using teapots and tools that respect the traditions of the place of origin of each variety of tea.
The timeless charm and elegance of Turin, however, do not end in the Merenda Reale experience, because other historic cafés, with their traditional appeal, are waiting to surprise patrons:
Caffè Torino: it is like the elegant living room of the city. It was inaugurated in 1903 in Piazza San Carlo, right below the premises of our school. It is the symbol of refined conviviality, but also of some superstition: on the pavement before its entrance there is a rampant brass bull which, in addition to being the symbol of the city, according to popular tradition is a powerful good luck charm.
Caffè San Carlo – Piazza San Carlo: Still in the most majestic square in Turin, it offers a classic and sophisticated experience. The refined interior decoration is reminiscent of the Royal Palace. Here, even though it is a totally modern idea, it is worth sampling the Carla, a special dessert filled with chocolate cream, coffee and caramel.
Cioccolateria Stratta – Piazza San Carlo: Founded in 1836, it was named official supplier of the Royal Savoy Household and remains one of the most prestigious sweet shops in Turin. It is famous for its gianduiotti, artisan pralines and artistic shop windows with seasonal themes. Its most refined product is the Gioia di Cavour, a gianduja-based chocolate with a creamy filling of Piedmontese hazelnuts, a note of liqueur and dark chocolate coating.
Caffè Pfatisch – Via Sacchi: Opened in 1915, it is one of the most iconic and refined cafés in Turin. Famous for its artisan panettone, pralines and chocolates of the highest quality, it also features the original underground laboratories, which are now part of the brand new and interactive Museum of Chocolate and Gianduja.
Baratti Milano – Galleria Subalpina: Founded in 1858, it is one of the most elegant cafés in Turin. Its speciality is the cremino, the famous three-layered chocolate symbol of Italian confectionery excellence. This café was frequented by intellectuals and famous personalities of the past, also thanks to its proximity to the Royal Palace and the Teatro Regio. Entering Baratti Milano today means taking a real journey back in time.
Caffè Mulassano – Piazza Castello: Tiny but iconic: the famous tramezzino, a soft sandwich without the bread crust, was invented here in 1926. Created to accompany a glass of vermouth, it has conquered Italy with its refined simplicity. The Belle-Époque interior, with gilded mirrors and carved wood, is a hidden gem. It is perfect for those who prefer a savoury snack, but still with style.
Pasticceria Abrate – Via Po: This historic shop opened in 1866, served breakfast to the officers who studied at the Royal Cavalry School on elegant silver trays. Here you can enjoy the traditional hot chocolate prepared in the old way, that is with grated cocoa mixed with hot water as the Mayans and Aztecs used to do.
Each historic café, with its own personality, history and atmosphere, is unique. Visiting these places means savouring Turin with your eyes, palate and heart and really getting to know the culture of our region.
The following are not members of the Association of Historic Cafés of Turin and Piedmont, but they are still charming places, well worth a visit for their atmosphere:
Farmacia Del Cambio – Piazza Carignano
Initially a pharmacy, it subsequently became a travel agency, but today it is one of the best-known cafés in the city. This is where the famous square brioche was invented, a new shape and a modern style in Turin’s pastry-making.
Caffetteria Reale – Palazzo Reale
The magic of having coffee in the inner courtyard of the Royal Palace, under the voult frescoes dating back to 1846, surrounded by precious porcelain, teapots and silverware that belonged to the House of Savoy, is priceless.
Bicerin – opposite the Santuario della Consolata
Founded in 1763, the historic Al Bicerin Confectionery is the birthplace of Bicerin, whose secret recipe is passed down from generation to generation. It is a small café, but it is full of charm. Even today it has an intimate and welcoming atmosphere. Al Bicerin Confectionery also played an important social role in Turin’s history: for many years it was the only café that women could frequent freely, as it was run by women. At a time when cafés were exclusively male environments, this made it a special place.
Want to explore all these places for yourself? Come study in our Turin school!
Scuola Leonardo da Vinci Turin
The welcoming friendly atmosphere of our school will make you feel at home and you can relax with your classmates in the small gardens of the adjacent pedestrian area.
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